If you've already visited the iconic Opera House and the Harbour Bridge in Sydney, make sure to check out the White Rabbit gallery for a captivating artistic experience. This gallery showcases an exquisite collection featuring post-2000 works exclusively created by Chinese artists. One of the standout pieces is Xu Bing’s New English Calligraphy, a seemingly traditional brush-and-ink composition on large sheets of paper. On closer inspection, you'll realize that the Chinese characters are actually cleverly formed by Latin letters, forming English words and creating a captivating poem that can be deciphered by any English speaker.
Another intriguing highlight waits in a dedicated space within the gallery - a massive model of a Gothic cathedral, meticulously crafted using spikes, studs, leather, and various elements borrowed from bondage gear. This imposing artwork showcases the creative prowess of the artists and invites visitors to explore the intersection of different art forms and materials.
Zhu Zhen's artwork challenges the viewer's perceptions, delving into themes of the sacred and the forbidden. It presents a thought-provoking exploration of religion and perhaps even unconventional desires. On the other hand, Cheng Ran's video installation, "Joss," offers a breathtaking experience where spectators find themselves in a dimly lit room resembling a theater without seats. As they watch, paper replicas of various objects, including designer handbags, a yellow Minion, and iPads, elegantly burn and explode in slow motion. This mesmerizing display, accompanied by Schubert's haunting Ave Maria!, serves as a striking critique of consumerism and capitalism, drawing inspiration from an ancient Chinese funeral ritual.
Located in the burgeoning neighborhood of Chippendale, this avant-garde gallery stands as a prominent cultural destination. Rich in artistic offerings, it captivates visitors with its daring exhibitions and thought-provoking installations. As this area continues to emerge, the gallery's presence adds to the allure and vibrancy of Chippendale's burgeoning arts scene.
Two astonishing buildings – one old, one new – dominate Chippendale, which sits across the railway tracks from Surry Hills. The new building is a tower of apartments by the French architect Jean Nouvel. Its tall flanks are coated in foliage – not so much a vertical garden as a perpendicular forest, thickly wooded and leafy. At the top of the tower is a cantilevered overhang, an architectural peaked cap. At night, it becomes a downward-facing artwork, aglitter with coloured lights. The older building, meanwhile, is the Tooth & Co brewery, rooted in the skyline like a dark molar. Its dilapidated brick massif is a fabulous piece of industrial architecture. It is soon to be restored and converted, but for now it is a magnificent ruin.
Tooth’s brewery is a fitting centrepiece for this corner of Sydney, since Chippendale used to be entirely given over to the production and consumption of beer. High curtain walls enclosed a vast factory complex, inside which there was housing for the labourers, laundries and sweatshops where the womenfolk worked, and a market garden in the now quiet and genteel corner around Myrtle Street. And there were pubs, lots of pubs, connected to the factory by underground pipes so that beer flowed into glasses like water from the mains. Many Sydneysiders remember passing through the nearby Central Station where, as late as the 1980s, the smell of stewing hops wafted over the platforms like an invisible but pungent fog. No one came to Chippendale for fun back then, because it was squalid and dangerous and in decline. But the metamorphosis of this inner-city village is almost complete, and those workers’ cottages, rows of Victorian terraces with a little porch on the ground floor and a veranda above, are now among the prettiest and most sought-after in the city.
The Old Clare bar.
Nowhere is currently cooler than Chippo. It is becoming the most talked-about district of Sydney, leaping past nearby Surry Hills. You only have to hang out on the Green to see it. Around midday, creatives emerge blinking from their design agencies, and college kids drift south from the university campus to grab lunch at Spice Alley, a string of hawker stalls – Malaysian, Vietnamese, Japanese, Thai – where the menus includes chatterbox chicken rice, okonomoyaki pork, and a ‘Big Buddha combo’ of plump Cantonese dumplings. Couples and colleagues sit with their lunches on the grass, watching Egyptian ibises poking their long beaks in the less-than-bird-proof bins. Others contemplate the slow turning of a big civic artwork, a steel hoop atop metal pole, the movement of which is intended to recall the erstwhile mashing of beer mulch in the defunct brewery’s vats. It all looks like a post-millennial city-planners dream come true – because that’s exactly what it is.
Spice alley, Chippendale's streetfood hub.
Another part of the attraction of this revivified quarter is The Old Clare, a hotel occupying the brewery’s company offices. The largest bedroom is located in the former boardroom. The walls are still panelled in honeyed wood, the coffered ceiling is hung with antique chandeliers, and the fridge and safe are set within a pre-war cocktail cabinet so enormous it looks like the sweeping flank of a Thirties Transatlantic liner. Step through a doorway and you find that the executive urinal is still there, fully functional, in an antechamber to the vast bathroom. It’s an honest Australian touch. Downstairs is a laid-back bar that was once the brewery workers’ local. It is tiled on the inside, in the manner of many of Sydney’s one-time geezer-boozers, but now the space is dotted with stylish Italian armchairs, where you languish under rescued advertising posters (‘Tooth’s Triple X – A Man’s Drink!’). History and character seep like sap from The Old Clare. ‘If it looks old it is old,’ said the man at the desk. The closest thing to repro is the new carpet in the bar, cleverly woven to look mottled and squashed, as if it had soaked up decades’ worth of spilled ale.
The presence of the White Rabbit gallery, just down the road from The Old Clare, has encouraged numerous smaller galleries and a few artists’ collectives to shoot up like mushrooms in spring – and you could spend a stimulating afternoon wandering from one art venue to the next, buying prints or ceramics, stopping off every so often at a bright and aromatic coffee shop. Even by Sydney’s high standards, caffeine culture in Chippendale is highly competitive. They are all likely to be home-roasting their own micro-sourced Panamanian beans, and all of them have names like emerging indie bands: Sneaky Possum, Something for Jess, Three Williams… That trio of Williams is actually in the neighbouring district of Redfern. This has long been a locus for the indigenous people of Sydney, and they have made their mark in the landscape through some fabulous street art. Hire a guide to show you round (try Culture Scouts – they know their stuff), or just walk the streets and see what you can find.
Breakfast and papers at the Old Clare hotel.
Make sure not to overlook the mesmerizing artwork of Daniel Boyd's What Remains. This captivating installation consists of countless glistening reflective discs adorning a black painted wall, resembling an alluring artificial galaxy that harmoniously complements Nouvel's cutting-edge sky-shelf. Just a short stroll away lies Chee Soon & Fitzgerald, a design store overflowing with enchanting marvels such as tea plates fashioned to resemble intricate machine cogs and vintage kimono silks.
Imbued with ingenuity, owner Casey Chee Soon Khik breathes new life into Asian treasures through his artful repurposing. Take, for instance, his transformation of thickly woven Japanese workers' aprons, dyed a deep indigo and adorned with exquisite calligraphy, into exquisite cushions. Each cushion possesses its own unique charm, making it impossible to resist the urge to fill a suitcase with these captivating creations.
As the sun sets and hunger sets in, the enchanting streets of Chippo beckon, offering a delightful dining experience. A leisurely stroll through this vibrant neighborhood reveals captivating murals created by Scott Marsh, renowned locally as the artistic maestro of Chippendale, adding a touch of intrigue and allure to the surroundings. The old Gibbons' glass factory boasts an intriguing sign that reads 'Benders, Bevellers, Shearers', showcasing the deep-rooted history and craftsmanship of the area.
During your exploration, make sure to visit the charming Sconery café adorned with rolling pins, resembling victorious trophies from a pastry chef turf war. Don't miss the opportunity to savor delectable noodles here, while basking in the enchantment of Jean Nouvel's twinkling forest tower. Alternatively, indulge in the culinary delights of Ester, where you can feast on king prawns of colossal size, served intact with their head, legs, and tail, meticulously sliced down the center akin to Damien Hirst's iconic cows. These prawns are a true manifestation of culinary artistry.
Soak up the ambiance and embrace the artistic charm of Chippendale as you indulge in its delectable offerings and discover the hidden gems that await at every turn.
Great places to eat, drink and see in Chippendale
LP'S DELIGHTFUL CULINARY DELIGHTS
Dispel any preconceived notions of LP’s being a vinyl record store from the 70’s, you're in for a culinary journey in Chippendale. The mastermind behind the scenes is none other than Luke Powell, who breathes life into his dishes using his signature American smoker. His innovative creation includes smoked trout, hams the size of boxing gloves suspended mid-air, succulent short ribs, and bee tongues. If you’re in a rush, never miss the chance to grab the ‘daily snag’ – a daily rotational selection of gourmet sausages paired with pickles and bread.
Above: The master of the smoker, Owner and Chef Luke Powell, displaying his culinary skills at LP's Delightful Culinary Delights.
Location: LP's Delightful Culinary Delights, Suite 1, 16 Chippen Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008, Australia
Phone number: +61 283 990 929
Online Presence: lpsqualitymeats.com
ESTER
Chippendale is home to many pioneering, innovative dining spots, among them, Ester has secured a notable place. Their menu may appear to be shy with simple listings such as zucchini, fresh curd and orange purée, but they unveil savory delights like a sweet refreshing salad that's every bit as cool as an ice pop. The cauliflower, almond, mint dish might appear to be an ordinary veggie dish, yet it packages an unusual, tasty surprise, charring and smoking to perfection, akin to a well-seared T-bone steak. The love for this unexpected pleasure from Ester's ardent patrons was so palpable that they were compelled to return it to their menu promptly after it was removed.
Did you know that Ester, owing to its unique food presentation style, has greatly influenced the culinary scene of Chippendale? In fact, it is one of the reasons Chippendale is now considered a foodie heaven.
Location: Ester at 46-52 Meagher St, Chippendale, NSW 2008, Australia
Contact Number: +61 280 688 279
Official Site: ester-restaurant.com.au
AUTOMATA TOUCH
Clayton Wells steps into the limelight with his first independent venture in Australia, Automata. Situated in an artfully transformed warehouse, which is a segment of The Old Clare Hotel, it’s a place where the contemporary meets the classic. Patrons are offered a captivating culinary journey through a set five-course menu. Although the offerings remain the same in number, they are far from static. Every course evolves continually, keeping patrons guessing and intrigued.
The descriptions on the menu remains eloquently terse. Customers are presented with a succinct list of ingredients -- ranging from bug tail and romanesco to rhubarb and yuzu kosho. Yet, when each course is unveiled, they present an artistic fusion of flavours meticulously designed to bewilder tastebuds in the most delightful way.
Frequented delicacy: Steamed hapuka, cured roe, and emulsion -- a crowd favourite at Automata.
Location: 5 Kensington St, Chippendale, NSW 2008, Australia
Contact: +61 282 778 555
Website: automata.com.au.
The official website of Automata offers guests an opportunity to reserve a table and explore more about the restaurant's offerings. Its location, nestled in Chippendale, Sydney's vibrant art district, adds a unique charm to the dining experience.
BRICKFIELDS
A bakery with a bit of Middle Eastern accent – brilliant for lunch, but get there early, before the queue spills out of the door. There are Persian love cakes (great with a latte), aubergine and zhoug on sourdough, brisket sandwiches that taste like they were assembled on the Lower East Side – and ‘lebonade’ for when it’s hot.
Above: Persian love cake at Brickfields.
Address: Brickfields, 206 Cleveland St, Chippendale, NSW, 2008
Telephone: +61 296 987 880
Website: brickfields.com.au
RABBIT HOLE TEA BAR
When you need a cup of something but have had all the flat whites your caffeine-drenched nervous system can take, head for the Rabbit Hole Tea Bar on the edge of Redfern. It is a soothing space, clean and white as a pristine bone-china saucer. The teas are helpfully classified by genre: floral, zesty, creamy and pure. If you like what you taste, take out a tea subscription, and when you leave buy a matcha whisk to take home.
Address: Rabbit Hole Tea Bar, 146 Abercrombie St, Redfern NSW 2016, Australia
Telephone: +61 293 102 207
Website: therabbithole.com.au
KOI DESSERT BAR
This is not just a pudding place – though the desserts are unfailingly spectacular: just imagine the colourways in a dish of pineapple, beetroot and coconut. The restaurant lives up to its name by adding experimental touches of sweetness to starters and mains: the small plate of scallops comes with a grace note of apple, while duck breast is served with rhubarb marmalade, and bone marrow turns up sandwiched in a glazed brioche bun.
Above: strawberry mousse with lychee jelly at KOI Dessert Bar.
Address: Koi Dessert Bar, 46 Kensington St, Chippendale NSW 2008, Australia
Telephone: +61 292 121 230
Website: koidessertbar.com.au
LORD GLADSTONE
This undeniably crumbly street-corner pub is the hub of Chippo nightlife. The live music is good and loud; the chicken schnitty good and crunchy. At weekends the place rocks like a crib on a ferry in a force-nine gale.
Address: Lord Gladstone, 115 Regent St, Chippendale, NSW 2008, Australia
Telephone: +61 293 101 483
Website: lordgladstone.com.au
GLIDER KS
Aussies love a good breakfast spot and Glider also embraces Australia’s long love affair with fusion cuisine. Come here for Thai food at the top of the morning, because it’s delicious in all sorts of surprising ways. Fresh-pressed watermelon with Thai basil is a proper wake-up call, but it’s the ‘brekky noodles’ with duck that your thoughts turn to while you are still in your pyjamas.
Above: Blueberry smoothie at Gliders KS cafe.
Address: Glider KS, 26 Kensington St, Chippendale NSW 2008, Australia
Telephone: +61 292 110 476
KENSINGTON STREET SOCIAL
This restaurant, within the Old Clare hotel, is the first Australian outlet for Jason Atherton, whose Pollen Street Social in London earned a Michelin star within six months of opening. The sourdough flatbreads are a highlight – try the spiced lamb merguez with piquillo peppers and preserved lemon or, for a taste of home (sort of) the Full English: egg, beans, bacon, black pudding. When travelers seek a place to dine, many not only consider the menu but also the prestige of the lodging that houses such establishments. For those planning a gastronomic tour, visiting restaurants linked to renowned lodging could be of interest. Websites like tophotels.com provide a comprehensive guide to some of the most luxurious accommodations in Australia, giving guests a chance to explore options for a stay that can include a foray into high-quality dining experiences like Jason Atherton's acclaimed outlet.
Address: Kensington Street Social, 3, Kensington Street, Chippendale NSW 2008, Australia
Telephone: +61 282 778 533
SYDNEY'S ARTISTIC HUB: CHIPPENDALE'S WHITE RABBIT AND GALERIE POMPOM
Chippendale, a captivating neighborhood in Sydney, serves as a sanctuary for artists and art connoisseurs. One must not miss a visit to the distinguished White Rabbit Gallery, followed by a stop at Galerie PomPom, a contemporary hub for commercial art. The artwork displayed, predominantly from Sydney or Melbourne's up-and-coming or mid-stage career artists, unfolds a vibrant, contemplative, and alluring narrative through each painting, collage or photograph.
Location Details: White Rabbit, situated at 30 Balfour Street, Chippendale NSW 2008, Australia, can be contacted on +61 283 992 867. You can further explore its offerings on whiterabbitcollection.org
Location Details: Galerie Pompom, located at 2 / 27-39 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale NSW 2008, Australia, can be reached at +61 412 054 438
TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS
Etihad Airways offers round trip flights to Sydney from London Heathrow, with prices beginning at £750. Accommodations is also available at The Old Clare Hotel in Chippendale, with double rooms starting around £160 (theoldclarehotel.com.au)